First ascent of Monte Rosa (1855)

The first ascent of Monte Rosa occurred in 1855, marking a significant achievement in alpinism. The summit, known as Höchste Spitze, was reached by a party of eight climbers led by three guides from Zermatt. This event established the route that remains popular for climbers today.

Episodes

Background and detail

Background. Monte Rosa is a mountain massif in the Pennine Alps, straddling the border between Italy and Switzerland. Its highest peak, the Dufourspitze, stands at 4,634 meters, making it the second-highest mountain in the Alps. The summit was historically referred to as Höchste Spitze, reflecting its status as the highest point in the region.

Expedition. Following numerous attempts in the early nineteenth century, the summit was finally reached in 1855. The expedition departed from Zermatt, involving a party of eight climbers accompanied by three guides. This successful ascent established the normal route for future climbers, who often start from the Monte Rosa Hut.

Legacy. The summit of Monte Rosa remains a significant destination for climbers, many of whom set out from the Monte Rosa Hut on the mountain's west wing. The Signalkuppe (Italian: Punta Gnifetti), one of the massif's main secondary summits on the Swiss-Italian border, hosts the Margherita Hut, which is used as a research station.

People involved

Sources

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