First ascent of the Finsteraarhorn (1829)

The first ascent of the Finsteraarhorn occurred in August 1829. Guides Jakob Leuthold and Johann Währen reached the summit on 10 August, building a pyramid to anchor a flagpole. This followed an earlier attempt by Franz Joseph Hugi in 1828. The mountain is the highest peak of the Bernese Alps.

Episodes

Background and detail

Background. The Finsteraarhorn is the highest mountain of the Bernese Alps and the most prominent peak in Switzerland. It lies on the border between the cantons of Bern and Valais. Although Monte Rosa became higher after Valais joined the Swiss Confederation in 1815, the Finsteraarhorn remains the highest point in the canton of Bern.

Prior Attempts. Franz Joseph Hugi, a geologist from Solothurn, attempted the ascent on 19 August 1828 with seven local climbers. An attempt on 3 August 1829 faltered before the successful summit was reached on 10 August 1829.

Route and Conditions. The normal route starts at the Finsteraarhorn Hut and goes over the south-west flank to the Hugisattel, then follows the north-west rocky ridge to the summit. The Bernese Alps feature longitudinal ridges parallel to the main chain, separated by deep valleys that form channels of great glaciers.

People involved

Sources

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