First ascent of the Aletschhorn

Background. The Aletschhorn is the second highest mountain in the Bernese Alps, standing at 4,194 meters. Unlike other major peaks, it lies entirely within the canton of Valais, situated in the most glaciated region of the Alps. Its remote location amidst glaciers made it less frequently visited than the Jungfrau or Eiger, despite its significant height.

Expedition. The first ascent was conducted in 1859 by Francis Fox Tuckett. The climbers established base camps on the Aletschfirn, the same location used during the earlier Jungfrau expeditions. The party spent the night in rock holes above the Mittel Aletsch Glacier before beginning their final push to the summit.

Route. The ascent route involved crossing a snow arête that connected the Dreieckhorn to the main peak of the Aletschhorn. This path was accessed from the east side of the mountain, starting from shelters above the Mittel Aletsch Glacier. The climb was part of the broader exploits of the English Alpine Club in the region.